Get Away, Close To Home

The Sunday Age

Sunday November 28, 2004

Paul Edwards

Ever thought about playing the tourist in Melbourne? It's well worthwhile, writes Paul Edwards.

Visitors rave about our streetscapes, public buildings and open spaces. The world's most liveable city has wonderful restaurants, lively bars, funky cafes. We ooze culture, breathe sport and have more major events than the rest of Australia put together.

Isn't it time we did a spot of exploration ourselves, and discovered what all the excitement is about?

STAYING IN TOWN

It pays to be savvy when booking a room for your Melbourne getaway. The standard hotel room tariff is known as the rack rate. Those in the know don't pay that - they look on internet sites such as www.lastminute.com.au or www.wotif.com and pay a whole lot less. This applies equally to budget rooms and the finest hotels in town. Here are a few you might consider:

UNDER $120 A NIGHT

Naval and Military Club, 27 Little Collins Street, 9650 4741. A little-known secret place - rooms are air-conditioned, have an ensuite and are available in either twin or double. Ideal CBD location; usual price is $135, but you can book online for as little as $100.

The Victoria, 215 Little Collins Street, 9653 0441. You can't get much more central than this - a vast old hotel much used by visitors from regional Victoria. Rack rate is $140 - online, as low as $80.

Radisson, 380 William Street, 9322 8000. Opposite the Flagstaff Gardens and near the Queen Victoria Market; rack rate is $329, but try for the occasional vacancy at $99.

UNDER $150 PER NIGHT

The Windsor, 103 Spring Street, 9633 6000. Yes folks, even the grand old lady of Melbourne hotels has bargains from time to time. Usual room rate is $400, but online, there are vacancies from $135, usually for Sunday or Monday nights. For that, you get a queen-sized bed, marble bathroom and use of the fitness centre.

Le Meridien, 495 Collins Street, 9620 9111. Stylish hotel created from the 19th-century Rialto building and laneway. The full rate is $320, but bargain hunters can score a room for $145 with access to the heated pool, spa, sauna and fitness centre.

Stamford Plaza, 111 Little Collins Street, 9659 1000. The rack rate at this five-star hotel in the heart of town is $450, but some rooms are available for $145. With ensuite, lounge and dining room and kitchen facilities.

UNDER $300 PER NIGHT

The Grand, 33 Spencer Street, 9611 4567. Enjoy complimentary use of indoor pool and fitness centre for some midweek nights at this five star hotel. Rates from $199 to $288.

Crown Towers, 8 Whiteman Street, 9292 6666. Standard price tag in this haunt of the rich and famous is $720, but online room rates start at $285, with quite a few vacancies.

Park Hyatt, 1 Parliament Square, 9224 1234. Bargain hunters can score a room here for $285, which is a saving of $135 on the usual rate. You'll get broadband connection, use of the lap pool and an Italian marble bathroom.

BE GUIDED - TAKE A TOUR

Building style

Go to http://www.heritage.vic.gov.au/page.asp?ID=166 to download a map of some of Melbourne's most significant heritage buildings. They are Flinders Street Station, the Olympic swimming stadium, the former ICI House, Capitol Building, Manchester Unity Building, former Russell Street police station, Sidney Myer Music Bowl and the National Gallery of Victoria. Now start walking.

Visit the dark side

Drew Sinton has been running Haunted Melbourne tours since 1997 and his aim is to enlighten and frighten. Tag along to see his old haunts - the Queen Victoria

Markets, where 9000 people are still buried, the former red-light district of Little Lonsdale Street and a couple of ancient haunted pubs for good measure. Every Saturday night - 9670 2585.

Sweet stuff

Film lovers and devotees of Dawn French in The Vicar of Dibley know how the stuff can get a grip on you. Suzie Wharton also knows - and she tells where to get it. To join one of the Chocaholic Tours, which also include ice-creams and refreshments in some of our city's most stylish cafes, call 9815 1228 or visit www.chocoholictours.com.au.

Shop like Carrie Bradshaw

Know those frantic shopping tours of factory outlets? This isn't one. Hidden Secrets Tours is all about style - the style that has made Melbourne one of the world's great shopping cities. You'll get an attractive shopping bag, wine tasting, and introduction to some of the city's coolest shops, bars and cafe. 9329 9665.

Vietnam on a plate

Take your pick of the Asian food precincts of Footscray or Springvale and gain an appreciation of culture, customs, medicines and great food. Explains the mysteries of what to buy, what to pay, how to cook it. Bookings essential: 9689 1186.

SOMETHING FOR NOTHING

1. Go round and round on the City Circle tram, with its great views of the blossoming Docklands and worthwhile tourist commentary. Hop on and off whenever you like.

2. Many bargain hunters head for the Queen Victoria Market but it's not the only one in town. Sunday's the day for the 150 art and craft stalls from around Victoria at the Arts Centre Market in St Kilda Road: 10am to 5pm.

3. It's always cool in Melbourne's historic churches: try St Pauls in Swanston Street, St Patricks in Cathedral Place, East Melbourne, Scots in Russell Street and - a personal favourite - the lovely little St James Old Cathedral, King Street, West Melbourne.

4. Pay your respects at the Shrine and note the new features. Walk around the precinct, look for Simpson and his donkey and say hello to Sir Edward "Weary" Dunlop.

5. Combine art with exercise - get a free Art Trail map from the visitor information centre in Federation Square, then inspect all the street art in the CBD.

6. Sshh! Quietly inspect the wonderful reading room (pictured below) and other halls at the State Library at the top of Swanston Street. The library opened in 1856.

7. Take a punt on the Australian Racing Museum and Hall of Fame in Federation Square.

8. Visit the Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia at Federation Square and see the finest examples of indigenous and non-indigenous art. Open daily.

9. Hey Jude - see the Melbourne Town Hall balcony where the Beatles stood, and the Melbourne Room where their friend the Queen took refreshments.

10. Take in the ground floor of the Immigration Museum at 400 Flinders Street.

THE PRECINCTS

The city is dotted with distinctive cultural, commercial, leisure and ethnic precincts, offering fascinating glimpses of other people's lives.

Little Bourke Street. Even Sydneysiders agree our Chinatown takes some beating. Try the yum cha.

Flinders Lane. The traditional home of Melbourne's rag trade houses gorgeous boutiques but has also branched out into food and clubs.

Docklands. Sceptics said it would never happen - now we're halfway into one of the world's great urban renewal projects.

The laneways. They're everywhere from the west end to the political precinct and they're crowded with funky shops, bars and cafes.

Southbank. Much more than gambling and grazing - it's home to the Arts

Centre, one of the world's great cultural complexes. Walk across the river to Flinders Street Station or the aquarium.

Sydney Road, Brunswick/Coburg. Seems to go halfway to Sydney - home of the Turkish community. Great food and eclectic shopping.

Chapel Street, South Yarra/Prahran. Fashion and food by day; eateries, bars and music at night.

Lygon Street, Carlton. More pizzas than in Portofino. The heartland of Melbourne's Italian community and a wonderful place to graze, shop and people watch.

Brunswick Street, Fitzroy. Funk and food - grunge gradually moving upmarket. While you're there, say buenos dias to Spanish town in neighbouring Johnston Street. Or visit the galleries in nearby Gertrude Street.

EAT, DRINK

Local and international visitors are often impressed with Melbourne's restaurants, bars and cafes - which is not surprising, given the quality and range on offer. There are hundred to choose from; spoilt for choice is an understatement. Here are just a few faves:

Scusami, Mid-level, Southgate, Southbank. Upmarket modern Italian with Yarra views. 9699 4111.

All Nations Hotel, 64 Lennox Street, Richmond. Like pubs used to be, only better. 9428 5612.

Pellegrini's, 66 Bourke Street, City. Quintessential Melbourne espresso bar. 9662 1885.

Syracuse, 23 Bank Place, City. Atmospheric restaurant, wine bar and salon. 9670 1777.

Botanical, 169 Domain Road, South Yarra. Upmarket pub with award-winning restaurant. 9820 7888.

Flower Drum, 17 Market Lane, City. Perhaps Australia's best Chinese restaurant. 9662 3655.

City Wine Shop, 159 Spring Street, City. Call in to buy wine and stay for a bite. 9639 1555.

Balzari, 130 Lygon Street, Carlton. Bold Mediterranean flavours in the heart of Melbourne's pasta belt.

9639 9383.

Taxi, Level 1, Transport Hotel, Federation Square. Brave Japanese fusion in an edgy setting. 9654 8808.

Cicciolina Back Bar, rear, 130 Acland Street, St Kilda. Dimly lit bar with fab bar snacks. 9525 3333.

Watermark, Victoria Harbour. Funky, modern, good tapas and drinks. 9642 1880.

Vlados, Bridge Road, Richmond. Meat followed by more wonderful meat. 9428 5833.

Belgian Beer Cafe, St Kilda Rd. Imbibe in gorgeous surrounds, ideal for balmy summer evenings. 9529 2899.

INDULGE THYSELF

Preparing for a big night or weekend on the town? You might need a bit of professional help to make you look your best. Try these for a makeover:

Geisha, 285 Little Collins Street, 9663 5544. Slip into a robe, sip tea in a traditional tatami room before being pampered by a team of professionals. Lean lines, paper screens and shiatsu massages combine for a total zen experience.

Sansal, 237 Flinders Lane, 9663 9226. White decor and a swirling, linear jet pool signify style. And that's what you get from the styling and colouring specialists at Sansal - a new style with make-up and beauty treatments from the Aveda range.

Park Hyatt Spa, 1 Parliament Square, 9224 1234. The ultimate package lasts eight hours, with luxurious change rooms, robes, slippers, Vichy shower, hydrotherapy tub, herbal bath, salt glow, body polish, body masque, scalp treatment, eye wrap, full-body massage, facial, pedi-spa, hand therapy, eyelash and eyebrow tinting and shaping, and a day pass to the training studio, pool, spa and plunge pool.

Crown Spa, Crown Towers, Southbank, 9292 6182. Choose from hydrotherapy, balneotherapy, thalassotherapy, massages, eye treatments, body wraps and facials. Separate male and female spas with spa treatment rooms, steam rooms and wet rooms.

Balnae Aroma Spa, Australia on Collins, 260 Collins Street, 9654 2455. Three main rooms: one has a Japanese feel, with a two-headed shower; another houses a spa and jet bath and a table for massages and wraps; and adjoining this is a third room for couples having simultaneous treatments.